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D-Day – and the next days

A tour that shows the epic's full dimension
The Caen-Falaise road in July, 1944, within cannon-range of Hill 112

 

"All countries have their own World War 2": our visit concentrates on visitors' country, yet includes all the Allied players – the British Commonwealth, the United States, the Free French, the Poles, the Russians on the Eastern Front. And rather than focus on the Landings alone, it explains the Battle of Normandy.

 

Another difference from classic tours: we include the civilian population  –  and the Germans. The private museums that stud the area leave them out. One wonders whether the Allies were firing into the air.


As well, in showing the Landings' risk, the tour emphasizes the unpredicability of war and provides an implicit warning.

 

 

  • We recall the Landings' scope and risk of failure

 

D-Day worked because Churchill's plan of "mystification" succeeded in keeping secret both the time and the place. The Allies then maintained their vulnerable toehold by another policy of subterfuge, which had Germany's elite 15th army remain a few hours' march from the beaches – waiting for an enemy that never came.

 

Hitler stated, and many historians agree, that a single division sent to Normandy in the first days would have thrown the Allies back into the sea. Western Europe would then have remained Nazi or have been dominated by Stalin's Russia.

 

 

  • On to the beaches and cemeteries

 

Americans will want to visit Pointe du Hoc, where U.S. marines scaled cliffs under machine-gun fire, and "Bloody Omaha", the beach where the landing almost failed. The American Military Cemetery, which is on high ground, looks west over both. Its rows and rows of crosses are extremely impressive.

 

• The German cemetery is a five-minute drive away. Dates of births and deaths on the tombstones show that many of the dead were adolescents.

 

• Visitors from the British Empire, Poles and French will choose the beaches to the west, where their troops fought. They are closer to Paris than is the American sector, which makes it possible to include the:

 

 ◊ Pegasus Bridge, about five miles north of Caen, where reinforcements arrived with skirling bagpipes... 

 

 

 

 

"Mystification" - rubber tank

◊ Peace Memorial. In Caen, it is the best museum on World War 2. It merits a full day.

  • Then comes a unique suggestion – discovering a battle, the ruins it left and people who were drawn into it

 

• Drive east toward the British and Canadian sector along Route 13 and describe some of the conflicts that took place on each heavily-contested meter...

 

• Come to an elevation from which cannon could dominate the plain of Caen. Germans and Allies declared that "whoever holds Hill 112 holds Normandy."

 

 

Hill 112

 

That particularity explains the extremely violent attempts to take the hill in June and July. But the Germans held on until the general retreat, which began on August 3 (we can visit the last battlefield).

 

 

A sign commemorates the fighting, but most historians omit it... because the Allies failed to dislodge the enemy?

 

  • It is thanks to a civilian that the battle is remembered  


The guards' house toward 1850 and the château

 

This 16th-century château was the German headquarters during the battle for Hill 112. The fighting left it in ruins. They are almost the only traces of the war that still remain in Normandy.

The château seen from the guards' house now

 

For the family owned other châteaux damaged in the fighting. Since the government could not rebuild them all. Our host lives in the guards' house, where he receives us.

 

 

• He recalls family memories...


The châtelain (the little boy) and his grandmother, 1944

 

The châtelain's grandmother, a marquise, opened her château (a few miles away) to villagers when the fighting began. Then she led them on an exodus to safety.

A page from her diary

 

Her diary is a major record of the Landings' impact on civilians. Yet it is known almost only to the family.

 

Our host reads some of its passages.

 

 

• And through a ground-breaking exhibit, he – 

º Evokes the battle through Germain and Allied equipment hauled out of the moat...  

 

º  Uses German documents to reveal an army that maintains discipline on the verge of defeat.  Most of western Normandy's 20-odd private museums leave out the adversary: Including the occupiers takes courage, because showing interest in them is sometimes viewed as support of them... 

 

º .And presents this message from a former SS to his adversaries –

...our common courage should let us create an association of veterans of Hill 112 who reject return to such horrible combat for all generations to come.

 

 

 

  • Practical suggestions

 

•  We can do the full trip if we leave Paris early and return late (7am-11pm). For a shorter tour, please choose either Omaha Beach and the cemeteries or the ruins and their story.

 

• Or combine the full visit with that of Normandy in peace.

• Costs: please CLICK.

 

 

Credits : Caen-Falaise route / London Times, August 1944 ; château / Claude Abron ; family photo and diary / kindly sent by our host