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France's unique Protestants

Walking tour & visits about a terrifying history... with surprising consequences

Few people realize that overwhelmingly Catholic France has a unique Protestant tradition. The belief that Man is saved by faith, not works, implied that the Church was not needed for salvation. Result: frightful civil wars in the 16th century and exodus in the 17th. Protestants returned officially only toward 1780.

 

Although they represent only 2% of today's population, they are important because:

  

 

     • They left a lasting impact on France and on the countries where they took  refuge.

 

   • A French Protestant population organized the sole massive, collective rescue of Jews during World War 2.

 

   •  Lack of a buffer between Man and God left a tradition of rigor and responsability,  traits that give today's French Protestants a civic influence that is far greater than their modest numbers might suggest. 

 

 

When the Sun King sent dragoons to force conversions (in 1684) many Protestants fled the kingdom in an exodus that accounts for most French names outside the country (including "New Rochelle" in Connecticut, which is named after La Rochelle, a Protestant stronghold).

 

Memory of persecution has lasted. It is the reason for which many French Protestants tend to side with the weak and is the backdrop for the most important Rescue of World War 2.

 

They are France's sole indigenous minority.

 

 

  • People who lived outside the ramparts (walk) 

 

Saint-Germain-des-Prés, site of "Little Geneva" and now an area celebrated for its bookstores and art galleries, is where our tour begins. We discover a surprising segment of the 13th-century ramparts and explain how the town walls and Protestants connect – and how that connection is at the heart of Saint-Germain's uniqueness.

 

 

      Hidden, splendid and serene, the Protestant Library nestles there...

       

      The new religion implied questioning and going directly to the Bible for answers, which meant knowing how to read. Those are reasons why in France many intellectuals adopted Protestantism and it is fitting that its main secular landmark in Paris should be a library.

      "Dragonnade": the term still means soldiers' officially-sponsored persecution of civilians.

      Guide: charismatic pastor

      Host: Président of the Protestant Historical Society

       

      • If received by special permission, we view its works of art and documents that are basic to the History of France.

      Library

       

      In this oasis of tranquility original portraits of 16th-century Huguenot leaders appropriately lean upon books. 

       

       

      War chief

       

      One of them is of the Protestants' first military leader, the Admiral de Coligny. His life, and death, were at the heart of the epoch's violence...

      Coligny, thrown from a window
      His statue: 19th-century political correctness

      • To evoke the Wars of Religion that devastated France, we visit the church whose tolling bells set off three months of slaughter (in 1572) and show a these works among others...

       

       

      Urban massacre, from a private collection
      Close-up

       

       

      • Triumphant Catholicism – Parisian churches' works of art or Versailles's Royal Chapel


       

       

      The Court looks toward the King, who looks toward God...

       

      As well, we enter churches on our walks, to discover religious art, and the fervent counter-attack of a menaced Church.

      who blesses him. (chapel ceiling)

       

      The Sun King's Chapel is the ideal place to explain the official, and the non-official but plausible, reasons for outlawing Protestantism.

         

         

        • The Return a walk in Europe's most famous cemetery 

         

         

        Our guide (X) ignores Christ the shepherd, a Catholic, rarely a Protestant, symbol.

        An erudite and charismatic specialist of Paris, who is also a fervent Protestant, takes us through the Père Lachaise cemetery (named after the Sun King's confessor) in a visit that emphasizes Protestant tombs: Please CLICK. 

         

        •  Sole massive, collective rescue of victims of Nazi persecution – talk (or trip) about a Protestant contribution

         

         

        Hidden in isolated highlands...

         

        This photo of a Huguenot church in the rescue region in the highlands of south-central France ( the Vivarais-Lignon Plateau) comes from the celebrated documentary, "Weapons of the spirit".

         

        Its tragic yet uplifting tale must be set in the Protestant context. Please CLICK...

         

         

        • We bring reproductions of the works of art that this page shows, and others

         

         

        • France's two historic minorities, Protestants and Jews ...

         

        have points in common. They can be a subject for discussion.

        • Our main guide is Catherine Aubin 

         

         

        Her maternal family is French Protestant and includes several pastors.

         

         

         

        •Costs: Please CLICK

         

        ° The Protestant Library charges a small entrance fee.

        ° The cost Mr. Appenzeller's visits depend on the context and number of participants. Please ask us.

         

         

        Credits: dragonnade / by Michel Loiret in T. Cahu, Le Roi Soleil, 1931; 16th-century paintings / private collection; photos / Claude Abron

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