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Explorers' feast – a nomadic repast...

on a medieval trade and pilgrimage route, where today 50 nationalities cross paths
  • The rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis was a trade route to England. Because it passed next to the church 

    where France's kings were buried, it was a pilgrimage route as well

Royal tombs at the Basilica of Saint-Denis

 

Saint Denis: the missionary who brought Christianity to Gaul. All France's kings (except three) are buried in the church that is on the site of his tomb.  
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis

 

"Faubourg" or "false burg", or suburb. The arch in the background is on the site of a gate in the city wall. This is the trade / pilgrimage route, outside town.

 

 

  • We stop at places chosen for excellence and authenticity (as well, their prices are modest) 

 

 

Légumes et épices indiens

 

The Indian and Pakistani restaurants of the Passage Brady are "touristy". The displays of fruit, vegetables and spices are more interesting. 
"Turkish pizzas" for 2 €, made in front of us

 

The small Turkish or Kurdish restaurants that dot this part of the street are more authentic (and less expensive).

 

 

  • This tiny African establishment is one of the best low-budget restaurants in the city

 

 

Doorway to a place with just a few tables

 

Sign of authenticity: a flat-screen television, for news or videos. When the news is exciting, clients, most of whom are young African men, vehemently discuss it.
The chef and owner grew up in the Ivory Coast

 

The fish or chicken with peanut sauce over delicately-flavored rice is outstanding. It could come right out of a West African market.

 

 

  • Interspersed with these stops, glimpses of ways of life, particularly through places of worship

 

 

• A closed door that opens at prayer-times. It leads to two small mosques.

 

 

The passage is briefly open at times of prayer.
The mosque, which the guard kindly allowed photographing.

 

 

• In the basement of a store of Indian imports, a Hindu temple

 

 
Shrine and place to mediitate
Statues of godesses

 

 

• On the rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin (another medieval trade route, parallel to this one),

a church with 12th-century origins

 

 

Choir boys
Church of Saint-Martin

 

 

  • "Mixed" is the right word for this neighborhood

 

 

• One kind of neighborhood business: stores for low-cost produce

 

 

Displays can be spectacular

 

 

• Another kind: speciality food stores

 

 

We can pause in this shop that sells products from Eastern Europe, for Bulgarian cheese and wine.

 

 

• Yet another kind: establishments from down-home France

 

 

Establishments may date back to the 19th century or cater to young professionals, whom relatively low rents attract.

 

 

  • In fact, "desert and coffee" can be French

 

 

Home-made ice cream in a well-known store for French specialties, a few steps from the mosques
Another speciality store, for coffee, sells demi-tasse on the street.

 

 

  • Residents who come from almost everywhere read the French press, communicate in French...

 

 

Next to one of the many Black hairdressing salons

 

 

...and add their own flavors to France's venerable cuisine.

 

 

• Costs:

 

º To guide: please CLICK

º To restaurants: 35€ (guide's lunch and tips included)

Please prepare this sum in advance and give it to guide at the start or the tour.

 

 

Credits: tomb / Harald Wolff; other photos / Catherine Aubin



Unexpected Paris guided tours