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City of kings – approach a monarchy whose imprint remains

Place des Vosges, "Place Royale" under the kings

"The" Place, as 17th-century people called the Place Royale (Place des Vosges since the Revolution), reveals how an exceptionally strong monarchy began. Long-term result: the most centralized State in Europe. 

 

 

See how Place des Vosges, the Palais-Royal gardens and Place de la Concorde were sites of power, defiance and calamity. Follow the kingship's rise and tragic end through one of Paris's loveliest walks.

 

 
  • Where modern France began
Once the epicenter of aristocratic culture, the Place des Vosges is now almost forgotten.

     

    Place Royale once, Place des Vosges now – because the Vosges region was first to send the revolutionary government its tax – the very names summarize two centuries of change.

     

    We explain how for about 75 years (1610-1685) this lovely square was at the hub of France's culture.

     

     

    • Symbols of new royal power

     

     

    King on horseback (Louis XIII)

    •A new kind of monarchy
    Unified façades

    •A political architecture

     

     

    •  Drama

     

    This eight-man duel took place on "La Place" at noon when the murderous sport had been forbidden. For their defiance, the ringleaders were publicly decapitated (in 1627).

     

    That the incident should be illustrated in a series of history-books for children indicates its importance.

     

    (That series appeared between 1900 and 1930. Its well-known illustrator, Maurice Leloir, chose incidents that highlighted the rise of a powerful State. These images  in the original volumes only. They have not been reprinted.

     

    We use them whenever we can: Renaissance Museum, Louvre,  Versailles...

     

     

     

     

    • The king's pose evolves – what might that imply?  


     

     

     

     

    The choice of site: a provocation
    Henry IV (by Rubens in 1624, who looks back to 1600)
    Louis XIV (by Le Brun, toward 1665)

     

     

    •  Rituals of courtship influence change 

     

     

    "Carte du tendre" - "Map of Love"

     

    Three decades years of religious wars had brutalized men and shattered the refinement of a once-celebrated Court. When peace came at last (in 1595), noblewomen felt the need to civilize their men. The famous "Map of Love", which they created in their "Place" salons, tells swashbucklers how to court them.

     

    On another level, the Map inspired a social code necessary for a Court that was becoming more and more powerful.

     

     That code still influences certain aspects of France's culture...

     

     

    •  Exceptional destinies 

     

     

    Madame de Montespan

    A favorite who gave the Court its glamor

    and the king, six children

     

     

     

    took care of the royal bastards – and married their father.
    Madame de Sévigny

    She never imagined that her letters would place her among France's great writers.

     

     

    • The neighborhood evolved as well

     

    The Sun King's definitive move to Versailles (in 1682) precipitated nobles' departure toward the Faubourg Saint-Germain, nearer the Court: Their descendants live there still.

     

    As well: This neighborhood is in eastern Paris and winds blow smoke in that direction. With 19th-century industrialization, the area became increasingly lower-income. Low rents attracted Jews fleeing Eastern Europe, as in New York's Lower East Side.  

     

    Since the 1980's the "Marais" has become fashionable again. Gay cafés cluster there while political leaders and movie stars are proud to give what outsiders might innocently regard as run-down addresses.

     

    We explore an exceptionally varied neighborhood.

     

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