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Saint-Denis – the church, arches, kings and "reds"

The revolution of Gothic architecture and contrasts that reveal France today
The chevet seen from within the church.

 

 
  • What looks like simply "the back of a church" is the revolutionary start of all Gothic architecture

 

It looks banal. It isn't.

 

"Gothic", or pointed, arches could carry a far heavier weight of stones than the earlier rounded arches. They made it possible to build churches large enough to house all urban activities, profane as well as sacred.

 

The huge edifices spread through Christendom, uniting Western culture as does Latin and Roman law. Breakthrough: building such arches around a curve. It was at Saint-Denis that that exploit happened first (toward 1120).

 

 

  • As well, this is the site where France's kings (all except three) are entombed

Tomb of Henry II and Catherine de Medici (mid 16th-century)

 

 

  • A few steps from the church took place one of Europe's great annual fairs
An outsize abbot overpowers little merchants...

 

 

  • It attracted traders from all Europe and deeply influenced Paris

 

 

A 19th-century mural that covers a full wall of the Sorbonne courtyard.

University students march off to the fair. 

     

     

    • Today's market, which is huge and dynamic, takes place on the same site 

     

     

    It takes place on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays until about 2 p.m., and covers blocks.

     

    • Children love its raucous vitality

     

     

    "Look at the handsome guy!" said this cheerful Muslim vendor.

     

     

    • In the heart of the industrialized "Red Belt", Saint-Denis has been Communist since the 1920's

     

     

    City Hall, with banner opposing a policy of the center-right government.

     

    A town visit reveals the effects of an orientation that surprises many visitors. 

     

     

     

    • One continuation

     

     
    • Another

    • Practical details

     

    • Saint-Denis is 40 minutes by métro from central Paris (a day's march).

    • If we travel by bus or car, we can continue to the Renaissance Museum.

     

    • We bring copies of works of art, to recall the medieval atmosphere. This page shows some. 

     

    • Costs: please CLICK

    º Basilica entry fee

     

     

    Credits: tomb and modern market / Harald Wolff; medieval market / Basilica brochure; other photos / Claude Abron

     

     

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